Welcome back to my blog! Today I am sharing my Granny Square Shrug! If you have been around long enough, you know that I LOVE a granny square project and I LOVE a shrug. This pattern combines the two in a simple yet impressive way.

I loved this pattern so much I made 2, the first is more of a spring/summer color way with bright blues and yellows, and the second is more September (October) with a Halloween color way. I think this pattern is perfect for those seasons since it has sleeves obviously but isn’t a full blown sweater.

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✨ Why You’ll Love This Pattern

💕 Great for Layering

✅ Perfect for Beginners (Video Tutorial included)

🌼 Trendy & Timeless

🧶 Customizable – Easily adjust for fit or color combos

This is the 4th shrug pattern I have made – I am obsessed with them!! Check out my other free shrug patterns on my blog too!

This pattern is size graded from XS-4X and also includes Made-To-Measure instructions so you can ultimately use any yarn & hook that you want! It is up to you! I made mine with baby cotton to keep it breezy for summer, but any yarn will work! Keep scrolling for the complete written pattern!

Also don’t forget to check out my Instagram or the LookBook in the PDF available on Etsy to see all of the amazing versions that my pattern testers created. They are the best!! <3

To purchase the inexpensive ad-free PDF download of this pattern, you can do so here!

A quick disclaimer—Please do not copy, redistribute, or resell this pattern in any way, including creating a video tutorial. You may sell your finished piece but please credit me as the pattern designer.

If you share your piece on social media, please credit me as the pattern designer. I would love if you tag me!! I really enjoy seeing your beautiful work.

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Materials

• Yarn – any yarn! I used about 375 g of Baby Cotton from Hobbii in 5 colors
• Hook – 4 mm (I use these!)
• Tapestry needle – to weave in the ends
• Scissors – to cut your yarn
• Stitch Markers
• Measuring Tape

Gauge

A granny square with 5 rounds = 5″x5″

**Gauge is not crucial to this pattern if you are using made-to-measure method. Don’t stress over it!

Abbreviations

Sl st = Slip Stitch

Ch = Chain

Sc = Single Crochet

Dc = Double Crochet

Yo = Yarn Over

St = Stitch

Sp = Space

Sk = Skip

Dec = Decrease

Blo = Back Loop Only

Important Pattern Notes

• This pattern uses US crochet terms.

• This pattern is worked by making granny square motifs first, and then joining them using the “join-as-you-go” method – minimal sewing!! Yay

• This pattern is size graded, however you can make-to-measure also & use any yarn/hook you like.

• I recommend blocking your gauge swatch & shrug.

• Stitch count in parentheses reflect the amount for each size (XS/S, M/L, XL/2X, 3X/4X)

Sizes

This is a graded pattern designed to be worn loosely with flowy sleeves. If between sizes, size up. Custom measurement instructions are just below.

Estimates above are based on using weight 1 yarn and my same gauge. However, if you wanted to use another size yarn and hook you should be able to follow the measurements or take your own measurements and achieve your desired custom sweater with the made-to-measure method.

Custom Measurements

A – Measure from your shoulder to your waist or hip, wherever you want your shrug to hit. Then add 4-6 inches. Add more inches if you want a more oversized fit.

B – Measure from wrist to wrist and add 2-4 inches.

C – Measure from wrist to armpit and subtract 1-2 inches.

D – Subtract C from B twice.

E – Start by making 1 granny square and measure it. Then just figure out how many of those squares you need to get the width and length you want.

Let’s get started!

Written Pattern

Notes: Each square is worked from the middle outwards and worked in the spaces between stitches. I switched colors each round. If you are making a solid color square – instead of cutting your yarn and rejoining each row, you can keep the same working yarn and continue the pattern of your granny square by a) working a slip stitch in a few stitches until you get to a space, or b) turn your work after each round.

If using custom measurements – leave the last round of your granny square unworked, you will crochet it as you join using the join-as-you-go method.

To Start: Grab your first color and create a magic circle OR chain 4 and join to the first chain made with a slip stitch to form a ring

Round 1: Chain 3 (counts as dc), work 2 more dc into ring *ch 2, work 3 dc into ring. Repeat from * two more times, ch 2, then join with a slip stitch into 3rd chain of the beginning chain 3. You should have 4 “clusters” and 4 ch 2 spaces as the corners. Fasten off yarn.

Round 2: Attach your yarn to a ch 2 sp. Ch 3 (counts as a dc) then work [2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc] all in that same space. *Work [3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc] into next chain 2 space. Repeat from * two more times then join with slip stitch into 3rd chain of beginning chain 3. You should have 8 “clusters”, 4 ch 2 spaces as the corners, and 4 sides with 1 space between clusters in each side. Fasten off yarn.

Round 3: Attach your yarn to a corner ch 2 sp. Ch 3 (counts as a dc) then work 2 dc, ch 2, and 3 dc all in that same space. Make 3 dc in the next space between clusters. Then in the next corner ch 2 space you will *work [3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc]. Then 3 dc in the next space. Repeat from * two more times then join with a slip stitch into the 3rd chain or the beginning chain 3. You should have 12 “clusters”, 4 ch 2 spaces as the corners, and 4 sides with 2 spaces between clusters in each side. Fasten off yarn. Stop here for size XS/S.

Round 4, 5, 6: Follow the pattern in Round 3, by working 3 dc in the spaces on the sides and [3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc] in the corners. You should have 16 “clusters”, 4 ch 2 spaces as the corners, and 4 sides with 3 spaces between clusters in each side. Fasten off yarn. Stop at round 4 for size M/L. Stop at round 5 for size XL/2X. Stop at round 6 for size 3X/4X.

I ended up with 60 squares with 4 rounds at this point for a size M/L (a 5×12 grid). Repeat to make as many squares as you need.

Join As You Go Chart

Joining

You will use the join-as-you-go method which means we will be adding 1 last round to the body squares as we join them. I have a VIDEO TUTORIAL on my Youtube to help guide you!

*** Optional: if you do not want to do the join-as-you-go method, you can repeat another round to your squares and then sew them together after.

First Square: Attach your yarn to the corner of your first square. Ch 3 (counts as a dc). Dc 2 more in the space. Dc 3 in each space and [3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc] in the corners. At the last corner you will only work 3 dc, leaving the last side unworked. See first photo below.

Subsequent Squares: Take your next square and using the same working yarn, dc 3 into the corner. Then sl st to the next space on your first square. Dc 3 into the next space of the subsequent square, and sl st to the next space on the first square again. Basically you are slip stitching to the prior square between each cluster. See second and third photos below.

At the corner, after you slip stitch, continue the round of granny stitch until you have 1 side left, just like the first square. Add another square by joining the same way. Repeat until you have 5 squares joined (or however many you need for your custom measurement) leaving the last square with 2 empty sides. See last photo above. You will now join the next row.

Start the next row by working the joining granny stitch down the row, like the photo below.

Dc 3 into each space, then sl st to the prior row to join between clusters. At the corner spaces of the squares, you will do a sl st to the first square corner, and then another sl st to the next square corner before making 3 dc into the next square corner you are joining. Continue down until you filled in the row.

At the end of row, you will continue the granny stitch around the whole square, and then work the granny stitch like you did in the first row to join again. Working 3 dc in each space and sl st to the next space and the corner spaces to join.

Repeat this entire process until you have joined all squares.

Then you will finish by working the granny stitch around the border (2 last sides) of your joined squares, by working 3 dc in each space, and [3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc] in the 2 corners.

At the joins of the squares on the last 2 sides, you will work 3 dc into the corner of the square, then ch 2, sl st to the space between the squares, ch 2, and then 3 dc into the corner of the next square. See photo below.

Once you get to the end, you will finish off the border at the corner of the square where you first beg an by working 3 dc, ch 2, and then sl st to the top of the ch 3 to join. Then fasten off yarn.

Seaming

Lay out your panel and fold it long ways.

From the corner, count 3.5 squares and add a stitch marker there. Do the same on both sides. This will be where you seam your sleeve closed.

If you are using custom measurements, measure from the edge inwards using your measurement C. Add a stitch marker here and do the same on both sides.

You can seam this however you like. I chose to do a sc seam. Attach your yarn to the first stitch on the edge of your sleeve. Make a sc by inserting your hook through the stitches on both panels, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through. Sc down the sleeve evenly as best as you can until you reach the stitch marker. Then fasten off yarn. Do the same for the other side.

Details

Now you will add a finishing border around the opening of your shrug. Make sure your shrug is flipped right side out. Attach your yarn near the seam of your sleeve. Ch 1, and then sc into the same stitch. Sc around evenly. Sl st to the first st to join. Fasten off yarn.

Ribbing

Attach your yarn to the sleeve cuff near the join, so it can be easily hidden.

Row 1: Ch 1 and sc in the same stitch. Sc decrease all the way around. Sl st to the first st to join.

Row 2: Ch 1 and sc in the same stitch. Sc decrease all the way around again. Sl st to the first stitch to join.

Row 3: Ch 9, or however long you want your cuff to be. Sc in the second chain from hook and in the next 8 chains. Sl st into the next sc on the sleeve, and sl st again to the next sc.

Row 4: Turn. Skip the 2 slip stitches and work back in the cuff. Sc blo in the next 8 stitches. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 5: Sc blo in each if the 8 stitches. Sl st into the next sc in the sleeve, and sl st again to the next sc.

Repeat row 4 & 5 all the way around. Then fasten off your yarn with a long tail and use that tail to seam your ribbing cuff closed, working on the “wrong side” or the inside so your seam is hidden.

Do the same for the other sleeve.

Weave in all ends and…

You’re all done!

I would LOVE to see your creation! If you crochet this Flower Shrug please tag or DM @woolymamacrochet on Instagram so I can like & share! 

If you have any questions or need help, PLEASE send me a message or leave a comment on this post.

If you enjoyed this pattern, please check out my other free patterns for wearables! Like the Seaside Shrug, Lovely Lacy Top, Granny’s Cabin Shrug, High Neck Granny Halter Top, Checkerboard Beanie or Coco Summer Crop Top! Thank you for checking out my blog and be sure to subscribe to my email list so you never miss a new free pattern!