Welcome back to my blog! Today I am sharing with you the adorable breezy Seaside Shrug! This shrug is simple to make yet super elevated due to the lacy stitches. I think it is perfect to wear to keep you warm enough from the ocean breeze, but still cool enough for the sun!

I am definitely in my shrug era, I am obsessed with them! Usually crochet pieces for the summer are more bralette type tops, which don’t get me wrong – I love! But sometimes I want to still have a little layering piece to wear – especially something super cute to throw on over top of a bikini!

This is a great and simple pattern so even if it is your first wearable piece, you should be able to breeze right through it! The lacy stitches make it quick to work up and you don’t need to use very much yarn. I only used about 150 g of Fio yarn which is a super fine cotton/polyester blend.

This pattern is size graded from XS-4X and also includes Made-To-Measure instructions so you can ultimately use any yarn & hook that you want! It is up to you! Keep scrolling for the complete written pattern & link to the free video tutorial!

Also don’t forget to check out my Instagram or the LookBook in the PDF available on Etsy to see all of the amazing versions that my pattern testers created. They are the best!! <3

To purchase the inexpensive ad-free PDF download of this pattern, you can do so here!

A quick disclaimer—Please do not copy, redistribute, or resell this pattern in any way, including creating a video tutorial. You may sell your finished piece but please credit me as the pattern designer.

If you share your piece on social media, please credit me as the pattern designer. I would love if you tag me!! I really enjoy seeing your beautiful work.

This post contains affiliate links, I may earn a small commission if you shop from my links with no additional cost to you.

Materials

Yarn – 700-950 yards of super fine/ fingering/ sock weight (1) yarn, depending on size. I used Hobbii Fio in color Cool Waves (09)
Hook – 4 mm (I use these !)
Tapestry needle – to weave in the ends
Scissors – to cut your yarn
Stitch Markers
Measuring Tape

Gauge

Horizontal gauge: The distance from the top of one motif diamond to the top of the adjacent motif diamond is 3 inches.

Vertical gauge: The distance from the bottom of one motif diamond to the top of the next motif diamond is 2 inches.

**Gauge is not crucial to this pattern if you are using made-to-measure method. Don’t stress over it!

Abbreviations

Sl st = Slip Stitch

Ch = Chain

Sc = Single Crochet

Dc = Double Crochet

Tr = Treble Crochet

Yo = Yarn Over

St = Stitch

Sp = Space

Sk = Skip

Dec = Decrease

Fpdc = Front Post Double Crochet

Important Pattern Notes

This pattern uses US crochet terms.

This pattern is worked side to side in one panel using a 4 row repeat. Then you’ll seam up the sleeves & add ribbing (optional).

This pattern is size graded, however you can make-to-measure also & use any yarn/hook you like.

Stitch count in parentheses reflect the amount for each size (XS/S, M/L, XL/2X, 3X/4X)

Sizes

This is a graded pattern designed to be worn loosely with flowy sleeves. If between sizes, size up. Custom measurement instructions are just below.

Estimates above are based on using weight 1 yarn and my same gauge. However, if you wanted to use another size yarn and hook you should be able to follow the measurements or take your own measurements and achieve your desired custom sweater with the made-to-measure method.

Custom Measurements

A – Measure from your shoulder to your waist or hip, wherever you want your shrug to hit. Then add 4-6 inches. Add more inches if you want a more oversized fit.

B – Measure from wrist to wrist and add 2-4 inches.

C – Measure from wrist to armpit and subtract 1-2 inches.

D – Subtract C from B twice.

Let’s get started!

Stitch Chart

The stitch chart is a visual representation of the written instructions. If you can’t read the stitch chart, don’t worry, follow the written directions and you will get the correct result. This is just added for people who prefer stitch charts. 🙂

The pattern is worked in multiples of 10 + 2 and a 4 row repeat. This chart shows row 1-8 over 20 + 2 stitches. You will repeat rows 5-8.

Written Pattern

Remember I have a video tutorial too if you need extra visual help! 🙂

Row 1: Ch (100, 110, 120, 130) + 2 or until you reach measurement A using a multiple of 10 + 2. If you’re using a thicker yarn your starting ch will likely be less chains.

Sc in the second ch from hook and in the next 2 ch.

*Ch 4, sk 2 ch, and tr into the next ch. Ch 4, sk 2 ch and sc into the next 5 ch. Repeat from * (9, 10, 11, 12) more times, or until you have 8 ch left.

Finish the row. Ch 4, sk 2 ch, and tr into the next ch. Ch 4, sk 2 ch and sc into the next 3.

Row 2: Ch 1 and turn. Sc into the same st and into the next st.

*Ch 4, then sc into the ch sp, then sc into the top of the tr and in the next ch sp. Ch 4, sk 1 st and sc into the next 3. Sk the next st. Repeat from * (9, 10, 11, 12) more times, or until you have 2 ch sp left.

Finish the row. Ch 4, then sc into the ch sp, then sc into the top of the tr and in the next ch sp. Ch 4, sk 1 st and sc into the next 2.

Row 3: Ch 8 and turn (counts as a tr & a ch 4 sp). Sc into the ch sp, sc into the next 3 stitches, and sc into the ch sp.

Ch 4, sk 1 st and tr into the middle st.

*Ch 4, sc into the ch sp, sc into the next 3 stitches, and sc into the ch sp. Ch 4, sk 1 st and tr into the middle st. Repeat from * (9, 10, 11, 12) but the last tr will be into the last st.

Row 4: Ch 1 and turn. Sc into the same st and into the next ch sp.

*Ch 4, sk 1 st and sc into the next 3. Sk the next st. Ch 4, then sc into the ch sp, then sc into the top of the tr and sc again in the next ch sp. Repeat from * (9, 10, 11, 12) more times.

Finish the row. Ch 4, sk 1 st and sc into the next 3. Sk the next st. Ch 4, then sc into the ch sp, then sc into the 5th ch (top of the ch 4 that counted as a tr).

Row 5: Ch 1 and turn. Sc in the next 2 stitches and the ch sp.

*Ch 4, sk 1 st, and tr into the next st. Ch 4, sc into the ch sp, sc into the next 3 stitches, and sc into the ch sp. Repeat from * (9, 10, 11, 12) more times, or until you have 2 ch sp left.

Finish the row. Ch 4, sk 1 st, and tr into the next st. Ch 4, sc into the ch sp, sc into the next 2 stitches

Row 6: Ch 1 and turn. Sc into the same st and into the next st.

Finish the row. Ch 4, then sc into the ch sp, then sc into the top of the tr and in the next ch sp. Ch 4, sk 1 st and sc into the next 2.

Row 7: Ch 8 and turn (counts as a tr & a ch 4 sp). Sc into the ch sp, sc into the next 3 stitches, and sc into the ch sp.

Ch 4, sk 1 st and tr into the middle st.

*Ch 4, sc into the ch sp, sc into the next 3 stitches, and sc into the ch sp. Ch 4, sk 1 st and tr into the middle st. Repeat from * (9, 10, 11, 12) but the last tr will be into the last st.

Row 8: Ch 1 and turn. Sc into the same st and into the next ch sp.

*Ch 4, sk 1 st and sc into the next 3. Sk the next st. Ch 4, then sc into the ch sp, then sc into the top of the tr and sc again in the next ch sp. Repeat from * (9, 10, 11, 12) more times.

Finish the row. Ch 4, sk 1 st and sc into the next 3. Sk the next st. Ch 4, then sc into the ch sp, then sc into the 5th ch (top of the ch 4 that counted as a tr).

Repeat rows 5-8 until you have (120, 124, 128, 132) rows total, or until you reach measurement B. Fasten off yarn.

Seaming

Lay out your panel and fold it long ways.

From the corner, count 10 diamond clusters. Add a stitch marker to the 10th cluster. Do the same on both sides. This will be where you seam your sleeve closed.

If you are using custom measurements, measure from the edge inwards using your measurement C. Add a stitch marker here and do the same on both sides. Now it a great time to try it on!

You can seam this however you like. I chose to do a sc seam. Attach your yarn to the first stitch on the edge of your sleeve. Make a sc by inserting your hook through the stitches on both panels, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through. Sc down the sleeve evenly as best as you can until you reach the stitch marker. Then fasten off yarn. Do the same for the other side.

Ribbing

Flip your shrug right side out & attach your yarn to the sleeve cuff near the join, so it can be easily hidden.

Row 1: Ch 1 and sc in the same stitch. Sc decrease all the way around. I counted each ch sp as 2 stitches. Sl st to the first st to join.

Row 2: Ch 1 and sc in the same stitch. Sc decrease all the way around. Sl st to the first stitch to join.

Row 3: Ch 3, front post dc into each stitch. St st to the top of the ch 3 to join.

Repeat row 3 two more times or until your cuff is your desired length. Fasten off yarn. Repeat for the other sleeve.

Final Details

Now your shrug is almost done! Only one more final detail is to sc around the opening.

Attach your yarn near the seam of your sleeve. Ch 1, and then sc into the same stitch. Sc around evenly, making 2 or 3 sc into each ch sp. Sl st to the first st to join. Fasten off yarn.

Weave in all ends and then …

You’re all done!

I would LOVE to see your creation! If you crochet this Seaside Shrug please tag or DM @woolymamacrochet on Instagram so I can like & share!

If you have any questions or need help, PLEASE send me a message or leave a comment on this post.

If you enjoyed this pattern, please check out my other free patterns for wearables! Like the Lovely Lacy Top, Granny’s Cabin Shrug, High Neck Granny Halter Top, Checkerboard Beanie or Coco Summer Crop Top! Thank you for checking out my blog and be sure to subscribe to my email list so you never miss a new free pattern!

The Seaside Shrug: Free Pattern with Stitch Chart & Video Tutorial