This boho stocking is a great project to make this holiday. By adding some cross stitch designs to the top, or accessorizing with ribbons and Pom-Poms, you will be able to create a beautiful heirloom that can be enjoyed for years to come!

This stocking takes only a little less than 1 value skein of yarn. I used Red Heart Super Saver in Aran for mine, but I had so many pattern testers use other beautiful colors! You can take a look at them all on my Instagram or in the lookbook at the end of the PDF pattern available here!

These stockings are also super quick to make! I was able to finish one during my daughters nap time, so it took only about 2 hours. Because it is worked up all in 1 consistent strand of yarn, it makes it a lot quicker since there is no cutting tying off and weaving ends! (Unless you are doing a fabulous stripe design!) 🙂

I also have a Mini Stocking pattern that is even quicker! Keep reading to find the FREE patterns for both the regular Boho Stocking, and the Mini Stocking pattern too!

You may sell the finished product as long as I am credited for the pattern. Do not copy and publish this pattern as your own.

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To purchase the inexpensive ad-free PDF download of this pattern, you can do so here!

Measurements

This pattern is for a regular large size stocking. The stocking in this example measures 16“ from top to toe, and 6” wide.

Materials

• YARN | 1 skein of Red Heart Super Saver worsted acrylic yarn in color Aran
• 5.5 mm hook and 6 mm hook
• tapestry needle to weave in the ends
• scissors to cut your yarn
• Stitch Markers
• Pom-Poms (optional) I made my own with the Clover Brand Pom-Pom maker
• Colored Yarn or Thread (optional) 1 yard of red and green, I used Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton
• Ribbon (optional) 1.5 yards. I used 3/8” in Satin Black

Gauge

Gauge is not crucial to this pattern.

Abbreviations

Sl st = Slip Stitch

Ch = Chain

Sc = Single crochet

Hdc = Half double crochet

St = Stitch

Sp = space

Pattern Notes

• This pattern uses US crochet terms.
• The turning chain 2 counts as the first leg of the cluster.
• This pattern is worked in 4 parts, starting from the toe, to the heel, then up the leg to the brim all using one strand of yarn.
• You will turn your work after each row alternating between working on the right side and wrong side, until you get to the top brim of the leg – then you will work in the round/spiral.
• The clusters are worked in the chain space, similar to a granny stitch. Work in the spaces, not in the stitches (unless notes otherwise)

Special Stitches

• Cluster Stitch – If you can double crochet, you can do this stitch! ( ) Yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through only 2 loops (as if you were making the first half of a double crochet). Repeat from two more times. There should be 4 loops on your hook now, yarn over and pull through all 4 loops. Finish with a Ch 1.

• Cluster Stitch Decrease – this is 2 partial clusters worked over 2 stitches, to result in one stitch. Work a cluster stitch as above, but stop when you have 4 loops on your hook. Then in the next stitch noted, begin working another cluster. Once you have 8 loops on your hook, yarn over and pull through all loops.

• Yarn Under Method – This is a popular method for amigurumi too, as it creates a tighter looking stitch. When working a sc, insert hook and then yarn under (yarn will be under the hook) then pull through, then yarn over and pull through last loop.

Boho Stocking Pattern

Toe/Foot

Round 1: With the 5.5 mm hook, make a magic ring and ch 2 (ch 2 counts as first partial dc for the first cluster st for this round, and going forward in each round). (*) Make a cluster stitch. Repeat from * 4 more times, then sl st to the top of the first cluster st. (5 clusters)

Round 2: Ch 2 and turn. This is an increase round where you will make 2 clusters in each chain sp. Start by making a cluster in the immediate sp by your starting chain 2 and make another cluster in the same sp. (*) Make 2 cluster stitches in the next sp. Repeat from * 3 more times. Sl st to the top of the first cluster (10 clusters).

Round 3: Ch 2, turn. Increase in every other chain sp. Make a cluster in the immediate sp by your starting ch 2. In the next sp, make 2 cluster stitches. (*) Make 1 cluster in the next sp, then 2 clusters in the next sp. Repeat from * 3 more times. Sl st to the top of the first cluster (15 clusters).

Round 4: Ch 2, turn. Increase in every third sp. Make a cluster in the immediate sp by your starting ch 2 and again in the next sp. In the next sp, make 2 cluster stitches. (*) Make a cluster in the next 2 spaces, then 2 clusters in the next sp. Repeat from * 3 more times. Sl st to the top of the first cluster (20 clusters).

Round 5: Ch 2 and turn. Make a cluster st in each sp around. Sl st to your first cluster (20 clusters).

Round 6-12: Repeat round 5 for seven more rounds (20 clusters).

Heel

We will work in rows, turning back and forth to make a triangular hourglass shape, by decreasing and then increasing.

Row 1: Ch 1, turn. Hdc in the ch 1 space. (*) Hdc in the next st (top of the cluster) then again in the next ch sp. Repeat from * 8 more times (19 Hdc). Add stitch markers to stitches on each end. (I recommend putting them through the legs/vertical bars of the sc so you can still work into the top of the stitch)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Hdc decrease in the first 2 stitches, hdc in the next 15, then hdc decrease in the last 2 stitches (17).

Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Hdc decrease in the first 2 stitches, hdc in the next 13, then hdc decrease in the last 2 stitches (15).

Row 4: Ch 1, turn. Hdc decrease in the first 2 stitches, hdc in the next 11, then hdc decrease in the last 2 stitches (13).

Row 5: Ch 1, turn. Hdc decrease in the first 2 stitches, hdc in the next 9, then hdc decrease in the last 2 stitches (11).

Row 6: Ch 1, turn. Hdc decrease in the first 2 stitches, hdc in the next 7, then hdc decrease in the last 2 stitches (9).

Row 7: Ch 1, turn. Hdc decrease in the first 2 stitches, hdc in the next 5, then hdc decrease in the last 2 stitches (7).

Row 8: Ch 1, turn. Hdc increase in the first stitch, hdc in the next 5, then hdc increase in the last stitch (9).

Row 9: Ch 1, turn. Hdc increase in the first stitch, hdc in the next 7, then hdc increase in the last stitch (11).

Row 10: Ch 1, turn. Hdc increase in the first stitch, hdc in the next 9, then hdc increase in the last stitch (13).

Row 11: Ch 1, turn. Hdc increase in the first stitch, hdc in the next 11, then hdc increase in the last stitch (15).

Row 12: Ch 1, turn. Hdc increase in the first stitch, hdc in the next 13, then hdc increase in the last stitch (17).

Row 13: Ch 1, turn. Hdc increase in the first stitch, hdc in the next 15, then hdc increase in the last stitch (19). Ch 1.

Fold the heel back onto itself. You will connect the top of the heel to the bottom. (See Figure A.)

Seam by working sc across evenly, starting at the stitch marker and until you get to the fold (for example I did 6 sc, you will have to make up where you put your stitches since you will be working into a raw side of the stitches). (See Figure B.) You might need to flip your stocking inside out to get your hook on the same side as me. Both sides are the same up until this point! 🙂

Now at the fold, slip stitch across until you reach the other side, so we can join the other side. I slip stitched into one loop of the stitches. This part will be hidden inside the stocking anyway. (See Figure C.)

Now at the next corner, working from the fold of the heel back to the foot, sc across evenly to seam, ending with the last stitch in the other stitch marker. (I did 6 again for this side.) (See Figure D.)

Leg

Now we will do clusters around again and work up the leg part of the stocking. Flip the heel up to work into the hdc stitches.

Round 1: Ch 2, we will do a cluster decrease in the corner. See photo below. Work the first part of the cluster decrease in the last hdc st of the heel, then work the last part of the cluster decrease in the top of the first cluster st on the foot. Make a cluster in the next ch sp and in the next 9 sp around until you get to the next corner connection. (11 clusters at this point). Now you will work another cluster decrease in the corner. Work the first part of the decrease in the next ch sp of the foot, then work the last part of the cluster decrease in the first hdc st on the heel. (*) Skip a stitch, and make a cluster in the next stitch. Repeat from * 7 more times. Sl st to the first cluster. (20 clusters total)

Round 2: Ch 2 and turn. Make a cluster st in each ch space around. Sl st to your first cluster (20 clusters).

Round 3-10: Repeat round 2 for 8 more rounds (20 clusters).

Brim

Round 1: With a size larger hook (I used a 6 mm), and working on the “right side”/outside, ch 1, sc in the same stitch, and then sc in the top of each cluster and in each space around (40).

Round 2-10: Work in the round/spiral. Sc in each stitch. (40) This means your next row starts on the first st of the previous row without turning and without making a sl st and chain between rows. Pro tip: Work your sc using the “yarn under” method for a better canvas to add a cross stitch design to!

Row 11: Sc 30, or until you reach the back center above the heel, this is where you’ll add the hanger loop. Ch 13, sc in first chain from hook and in each chain. Ch 1 and turn, sc in each stitch again. Sl st to the next sc on the brim of the stocking to secure the hanger loop. Tie off yarn with a long tail and use that to secure the loop more. Make sure it’s nice and secure, so the stocking will be able to hold all the gifts and treats!

Mini Stocking

This mini boho stocking is a so quick to make and SO adorable! It has the same construction as the regular boho stocking, just in a mini! You can use this as an ornament, an addition to gifts, or my favorite idea is to use as a gift card holder! How cute ☺️

It measures 6“ from top to toe, and 3” wide.

Toe/Foot

Round 1: With the 5.5 mm hook, make a magic ring and ch 2 (ch 2 counts as first partial dc for the first cluster st for this round, and going forward in each round). (*) Make a cluster stitch. Repeat from * 4 more times, then sl st to the top of the first cluster st. (5 clusters)

Round 2: Ch 2 and turn. This is an increase round where you will make 2 clusters in each chain sp. Start by making a cluster in the immediate sp by your starting chain 2 and make another cluster in the same sp. (*) Make 2 cluster stitches in the next sp. Repeat from * 3 more times. Sl st to the top of the first cluster (10 clusters).

Round 3: Ch 2 and turn. Make a cluster st in each sp around. Sl st to your first cluster (10 clusters).

Round 4-5: Repeat round 3 two more times (10 clusters).

Heel

We will work in rows, turning back and forth to make a triangular hourglass shape, by decreasing and then increasing.

Row 1: Ch 1, turn. Hdc in the ch 1 space. (*) Hdc in the next st (top of the cluster) then again in the next ch sp. Repeat from * 3 more times (9 Hdc). Add stitch markers to stitches on each end. (I recommend putting them through the legs/vertical bars of the sc so you can still work into the top of the stitch)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Hdc decrease in the first 2 stitches, hdc in the next 5, then hdc decrease in the last 2 stitches (7).

Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Hdc decrease in the first 2 stitches, hdc in the next 3, then hdc decrease in the last 2 stitches (5).

Row 4: Ch 1, turn. Hdc decrease in the first 2 stitches, hdc in the next, then hdc decrease in the last 2 stitches (3).

Row 5: Ch 1, turn. Hdc increase in the first stitch, hdc in the next, then hdc increase in the last stitch (5).

Row 6: Ch 1, turn. Hdc increase in the first stitch, hdc in the next 5, then hdc increase in the last stitch (7).

Row 7: Ch 1, turn. Hdc increase in the first stitch, hdc in the next 7, then hdc increase in the last stitch (9).

Fold the heel back onto itself. You will connect the top of the heel to the bottom. (See Figure A.)

Seam by working sc across evenly, starting at the stitch marker and until you get to the fold (for example I did 3 sc, you will have to make up where you put your stitches since you will be working into a raw side of the stitches). (See Figure B.) You might need to flip your stocking inside out to get your hook on the same side as me. Both sides are the same up until this point! 🙂

Now at the fold, slip stitch across until you reach the other side, so we can join the other side. I slip stitched into one loop of the stitches. This part will be hidden inside the stocking anyway. (See Figure C.)

Now at the next corner, working from the fold of the heel back to the foot, sc across evenly to seam, ending with the last stitch in the other stitch marker. (I did 3 again for this side.) (See Figure D.)

Leg

Round 1: Ch 2, we will do a cluster decrease in the corner. Work the first part of the cluster decrease in the last hdc st of the heel, then work the last part of the cluster decrease in the top of the first cluster st on the foot. Make a cluster in the next ch sp and in the next 4 sp around until you get to the next corner connection. (6 clusters at this point). Now you will work another cluster decrease in the corner. Work the first part of the decrease in the next ch sp of the foot, then work the last part of the cluster decrease in the first hdc st on the heel. (*) Skip a stitch, and make a cluster in the next stitch. Repeat from * 2 more times. Sl st to the first cluster. (10 clusters total)

Round 2: Ch 2 and turn. Make a cluster st in each ch space around. Sl st to your first cluster (10 clusters).

Round 3: Repeat round 2 two more times. (10 clusters).

Brim

Round 1: With a size larger hook (I used a 6 mm), and working on the “right side”/outside, ch 1, sc in the same stitch, and then sc in the top of each cluster and in each space around (20).

Round 2-4: Work in the round/spiral. Sc in each stitch. (20) This means your next row starts on the first st of the previous row without turning and without making a sl st and chain between rows. Pro tip: Work your sc using the “yarn under” method for a better canvas to add a cross stitch design to!

Row 5: Sc 15 or until you reach the back center above the heel, this is where you’ll add the hanger loop. Ch 8, then sl st to the brim of the stocking to secure. Fasten off yarn.

Weave in your ends and you’re done!

Adding Alterations

Now your stocking is finished, yay! I think it looks great as-is, but you can also embellish it in some different ways too that I will share with you here!

Pom Poms

Make 2 pom-poms and secure them with 2 staggered length chains near the back hanging loop of your stocking. I attached my yarn under the loop and created a chain of 15, and a chain of 20 to attach my pom-poms to. I really love the Clover brand pom-pom maker, it’s so easy & they come out beautiful every time! There are also ways to make some without a tool and you can find a bunch of tutorials online.

Cross Stitch

The top of the stocking is a perfect canvas for adding beautiful cross stitch designs. It is essentially a 10×20 grid. I think adding some Christmas designs, or even a name or initial would be such a cute addition to the stocking. I added some hearts and holly on the one I made and I’ll share the grid with you below in case you want to make it the same.

Ribbons

Turn your boho stocking coquette by adding ribbon and bows! The use of ribbon really elevates the look of the stocking. You can weave the ribbon through the stitches, or tie on a multitude bows. Use traditional holiday colors, or your favorite color! The options are endless.

All Done!

I would LOVE to see your creation! If you crochet this Boho Stocking please tag or mention @woolymamacrochet on Instagram so I can like & share! 

If you have any questions or need help, PLEASE send me a message or leave a comment on this post.

If you loved this pattern, check out some of my other popular winter patterns, like my patchwork beanies, or my Granny’s Cabin Shrug!

Thank you & Happy Crocheting!! <3