Welcome back to my blog! Meet the Laguna Dress – your new go-to beach coverup that’s equal parts breezy, colorful, and fun to make. This free crochet pattern is worked up from bold and bright squares, stitched together into a flattering, lightweight dress that’s perfect for summer days by the water.

I designed the Laguna Dress with a cotton-linen blend yarn so it drapes beautifully, feels cool on the skin, and gets softer with every wash and wear. The playful mix of colors makes it easy to customize – you can go tropical with a rainbow of shades, or keep it chic with neutrals and pastels. But you can totally use any yarn you want!

Summer always makes me want to crochet with lots of color. I wanted something easy to put together but with a look that feels extra special. Granny squares were the perfect choice – quick to make, easy to take anywhere, and fun to mix and match.

Joined together, the squares create a lightweight patchwork dress that’s perfect as a beach coverup but cute enough to layer and wear out for dinner.

This pattern is size graded from XS-4X and also includes Made-To-Measure instructions so you can ultimately use any yarn & hook that you want! It is up to you! I made mine with lightweight cotton/linen blend to keep it breezy for summer, but any yarn will work! Keep scrolling for the complete written pattern!

Also don’t forget to check out my Instagram or the LookBook in the PDF available on Etsy to see all of the amazing versions that my pattern testers created. They are the best!! <3

To purchase the inexpensive ad-free PDF download of this pattern, you can do so here!

A quick disclaimer—Please do not copy, redistribute, or resell this pattern in any way, including creating a video tutorial. You may sell your finished piece but please credit me as the pattern designer.

If you share your piece on social media, please credit me as the pattern designer. I would love if you tag me!! I really enjoy seeing your beautiful work.

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Materials

• Yarn – any yarn! I used about 400 g sport weight (2) Olivin Yarn from Hobbii. 2 balls Sand, and 1 ball each of Crème, Rust, Purple, Sky Blue, Denim, Teal, Olive.
• Hook – 4.5 mm (I use these!) or recommended hook
• Tapestry needle – to weave in the ends
• Scissors – to cut your yarn
• Stitch Markers
• Measuring Tape

Gauge

19 st x 8 rows of dc = 4 x 4” (10 x 10 cm)

**Gauge is not crucial to this pattern if you are using made-to-measure method. Don’t stress over it!

Abbreviations

Sl st = Slip Stitch

Ch = Chain

Sc = Single Crochet

Hdc = Half Double Crochet

Dc = Double Crochet

Yo = Yarn Over

St = Stitch

Sp = Space

Sk = Skip

Important Pattern Notes

• This pattern uses US crochet terms.

• Pattern in brackets [] are worked all in the same stitch/space.

• This pattern is size graded, however there are also made-to-measure instructions so you could use any yarn/hook you like.

• Stitch counts are listed as (XS/S, M/L, XL/2XL, 3XL/4XL) Follow the number that corresponds to your size.

• This dress is constructed by making the body squares, bodice squares, then joining them together with a join-as-you-go stitch.

• Amount of recommended yarn needed for each size is included in the Measurements section.

• You can lengthen the dress by making an additional 3 squares and joining another row at the bottom.

Measurements

This is a graded pattern designed to fit your hip/bust measurement with and optional belt to cinch in your waist. Made-to-measure instructions are just below.

Finished Piece Measurements:

Estimates above are based on using the recommended yarn and my same gauge. However, if you wanted to use another size yarn and hook you should be able to follow the measurements or take your own measurements and achieve your desired custom top with the made-to-measure method.

Custom Measurements

A – Measure around the largest part of your torso (bust or waist).

B – Measure around the largest part of your hips.

Use your largest measurement and then divide by 3 and subtract 2 inches. This will be your measurement D. For example, someone with a bust measurement of 35”, waist of 30”, and hips of 40” would use the hip measurement of 40” / 3 = 13.3 – 2” = 11.3”. You will use this for made-to-measure method if using a different yarn size/hook size than recommended.

Let’s get started!

Pattern – Squares

Notes: Each square is worked from the middle outwards. I switched colors after every 2 rounds. Make your squares (8, 10, 12, 14) rounds. If using make-to-measure method, continue until the diagonal of your square reaches measurement D, ending with an even number of rounds. If size is between rounds, do less for a more fitted dress, or more for a more loose dress. You will add 1 more row when you are joining.

To Start: Grab your first color and create a magic circle OR chain 4 and join to the first chain made with a slip stitch to form a ring

Round 1: Chain 3 (counts as dc), work 2 more dc into ring *ch 1, work 3 dc into ring. Repeat from * two more times, ch 1, then join with a slip stitch into 3rd chain of the beginning chain 3. You should have 12 sts and 4 ch 1 spaces as the corners.

Round 2: Ch 3 (counts as a dc). Dc in each stitch and work [2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc] into each corner ch 1 sp all the way around. Join with slip stitch into 3rd chain of beginning chain 3. You should have 28 sts and 4 ch 1 spaces as the corners. Fasten off yarn.

Round 3: Attach your second color of yarn to a corner ch 1 sp. Ch 3 (counts as a dc) then work 1 dc, ch 1, and 2 dc all in that same space. Dc in each stitch and work [2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc] into each corner ch 1 sp all the way around. Join with a slip stitch into the 3rd chain of the beginning chain 3. You should have 44 sts and 4 ch 1 spaces as the corners.

Round 4: Ch 3 (counts as a dc). Dc in each stitch and work [2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc] into each corner ch 1 sp all the way around. Join with slip stitch into 3rd chain of beginning chain 3. You should have 60 sts and 4 ch 1 spaces as the corners. Fasten off yarn.

Round 5: Attach your third color of yarn to a corner ch 1 sp. Ch 3 (counts as a dc) then work 1 dc, ch 1, and 2 dc all in that same space. Dc in each stitch and work [2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc] into each corner ch 1 sp all the way around. Join with a slip stitch into the 3rd chain of the beginning chain 3. You should have 76 sts and 4 ch 1 spaces as the corners.

Round 6: Ch 3 (counts as a dc). Dc in each stitch and work [2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc] into each corner ch 1 sp all the way around. Join with slip stitch into 3rd chain of beginning chain 3. You should have 92 sts and 4 ch 1 spaces as the corners. Fasten off yarn.

Round 7: Attach your fourth color of yarn to a corner ch 1 sp. Ch 3 (counts as a dc) then work 1 dc, ch 1, and 2 dc all in that same space. Dc in each stitch and work [2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc] into each corner ch 1 sp all the way around. Join with a slip stitch into the 3rd chain of the beginning chain 3. You should have 108 sts and 4 ch 1 spaces as the corners.

Round 8: Ch 3 (counts as a dc). Dc in each stitch and work [2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc] into each corner ch 1 sp all the way around. Join with slip stitch into 3rd chain of beginning chain 3. You should have 124 sts and 4 ch 1 spaces as the corners. Fasten off yarn. Stop here for XS/S.

Round 9: Attach your fifth color of yarn to a corner ch 1 sp. Ch 3 (counts as a dc) then work 1 dc, ch 1, and 2 dc all in that same space. Dc in each stitch and work [2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc] into each corner ch 1 sp all the way around. Join with a slip stitch into the 3rd chain of the beginning chain 3. You should have 130 sts and 4 ch 1 spaces as the corners.

Round 10: Ch 3 (counts as a dc). Dc in each stitch and work [2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc] into each corner ch 1 sp all the way around. Join with slip stitch into 3rd chain of beginning chain 3. You should have 146 sts and 4 ch 1 spaces as the corners. Fasten off yarn. Stop here for M/L.

Round 11: Repeat round 9 using a sixth color. You should have 162 sts and 4 ch 1 spaces as the corners.

Round 12: Repeat round 10. You should have 178 sts and 4 ch 1 spaces as the corners. Fasten off yarn. Stop here for XL/2XL.

Round 13: Repeat round 9 using a seventh color. You should have 194 sts and 4 ch 1 spaces as the corners.

Round 14: Repeat round 10. You should have 210 sts and 4 ch 1 spaces as the corners. Fasten off yarn. 3XL/4XL.

Repeat to make 9 squares for a short dress, or 12 for a long dress. I made each square different colors.

Pattern – Bodice Squares

Use the same pattern for the squares, but make only half of the rounds you did earlier. For example, my body squares were 10 rounds, so I will only make these 5 rounds each.

Repeat to make 3 squares. I changed colors each round and made 2 the same colors and 1 different.

Layout

Layout your squares like below. I made the short version, but if you are making a long version you will have another row of squares at the bottom.

You will now join your squares with the join-as-you-go method. The line marked A will fold over any join along the other line marked A. You will do the same for the line marked B. Of making the long version, you will have one more row to join the same way.

Joining

You will use the join-as-you-go method which means we will be adding 1 last round to the body squares as we join them. I used the same color, Sand, to do this last joining round. You will join the body squares first.

First Square: Attach your yarn to the corner of your first square. Ch 3 (counts as a dc). Dc 1 more in the space. *Sk 1 and make 2 dc in the next st. Repeat all the way down and then (2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc) in the corner. Repeat from * all the way around. In the last space you only will make 2 dc and 1 ch, then sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join.

Fasten off yarn.

*** Optional: if you do not want to do the join-as-you-go method, you can repeat this same pattern for each body square and then sew them together after.

Subsequent Squares: Each square will now be joined to another square(s) as you go. Attach your yarn to the corner of your next square. Ch 3 (counts as a dc). Dc 1 more in the same space. Then you will sl st in the corresponding space on the first square. See photos below.

Then working back in the next square, *sk 1, and make 2 dc in the next st. Then sl st again to the next space in the previous square, as shown below. Repeat from * all the way down to the corner. After you join to the corner, ch 1, make 2 dc in the same space, and repeat the pattern around the rest of the square, like you did for the first square. Fasten off yarn.

Repeat the same process for each square. For some squares, you will join more then 1 side. Look back at your layout often to double check you are joining in the right spots.

Once your body squares are joined, you will do the bodice. Join your bodice squares together with the mattress stitch join. See photo below.

Now you will seam in the sides of the waist a little by using the mattress stitch again, about ⅓ to ½ of the length of the squares. Tip: flatten out this area by blocking or getting the fibers wet and setting them in place.

Now you will attach the bodice to the body squares. Start at the top corner, and attach your yarn to the corner space. Join-as-you-go using the same pattern as before. When you get to the seam of the 2 bodice squares, make 1 dc in each corner space, like the second photo below. Continue joining like this all the way around. Do the same for the next seam on the bodice squares.

Once you get to the other side and the bodice is joined, you will single crochet across the top. Sc in each stitch and in the ch sp corners. Continue along until you are back at the starting point, then continue to sc along the larger squares across the back of the dress, until you reach the beginning of the bodice square where you beginning the sc border. Sl st and fasten off yarn.

Straps

Attach your yarn to the top corner of your bodice square. Ch 200, then sl st into the top corner of the square on the back to create your shoulder strap. Repeat for the other side.

Note: try on your dress to make sure the straps sit where you want before fully securing and weaving in ends since they are not adjustable.

Belt – Optional

Take 2 strands of your yarn and then ch 200 (or however long you want your belt to be). Tie off yarn. I kept the loose ends and tied on another 2 strands on each end to create a fringe on the belt.

Weave in all ends and…

You’re all done!

I would LOVE to see your creation! If you crochet this Laguna Dress please tag or DM @woolymamacrochet on Instagram so I can like & share! 

If you have any questions or need help, PLEASE send me a message or leave a comment on this post.

If you enjoyed this pattern, please check out my other free patterns for wearables! Like the Seaside Shrug, Lovely Lacy Top, Granny’s Cabin Shrug, High Neck Granny Halter Top, Checkerboard Beanie or Coco Summer Crop Top! Thank you for checking out my blog and be sure to subscribe to my email list so you never miss a new free pattern!