Welcome back to my blog! Today I am sharing with you my FREE pattern for “Granny’s BEST Cardigan”. I will be sharing the pattern step by step with you – that even if you are a beginner you should be able to create a beautiful cardigan!!

I designed the Granny’s Best Cardigan because I wanted a great fitting, simple yet classic, granny square cardigan. I have made a granny square cardigan before, my Viral Halloween Patchwork Cardigan – which I LOVE – but its shaped a little bit differently. The Granny’s Best Cardigan is completely comprised of granny squares, including the sleeves, which makes it a little bit different.

This pattern is size graded using an acrylic worsted weight yarn, but I have also included instructions on how to use any yarn/hook that you want by using your own custom measurements and tweaking a few things here and there. Everything is included in the pattern below! I even have tons of pictures to help you along the way.

This cardigan is a new staple in my closet and I think every crocheter should have one! It’s the perfect project to use up some of those scrap yarns that you have laying around. Mine came out to be a super random multicolored cardigan but the possibilities are endless! I had an amazing group of crocheters help me test out this pattern – take a look at all of their creations and color combos on my Instagram or in the inexpensive ad-free PDF version on my Etsy. <3

This pattern is size graded from XS-4X and also includes Made-To-Measure instructions so you can ultimately use any yarn & hook that you want! It is up to you! Keep scrolling for the complete written pattern!

To purchase the inexpensive ad-free PDF download of this pattern, you can do so here!

A quick disclaimer—Please do not copy, redistribute, or resell this pattern in any way, including creating a video tutorial. You may sell your finished piece but please credit me as the pattern designer.

If you share your piece on social media, please credit me as the pattern designer. I would love if you tag me!! I really enjoy seeing your beautiful work.

This post contains affiliate links, I may earn a small commission if you shop from my links with no additional cost to you.

Materials

• Yarn – any yarn! I used about 675 g of crafting acrylic from Hobbii – a worsted weight size yarn. This includes about 325 g of Black (almost 2 skeins) which is my connecting color and ribbing color. You could get this kit with an extra skein of black & be set!
• Hook – 5.5 mm (I use these!) or recommended hook
• Tapestry needle – to weave in the ends
• Scissors – to cut your yarn
• Stitch Markers
• Measuring Tape
• Blocking Board – a MUST for any granny square project I make

Gauge

4 rounds on your granny square should measure 4.25” x 4.25”

5 rounds on your granny square should measure 5” x 5”

**Gauge is not crucial to this pattern if you are using made-to-measure method. Don’t stress over it!

Abbreviations

Sl st = Slip Stitch

Ch = Chain

Sc = Single Crochet

Dc = Double Crochet

Yo = Yarn Over

St = Stitch

Sp = Space

Sk = Skip

Blo = Back Loop Only

Important Pattern Notes

• This pattern uses US crochet terms.

• Pattern in brackets [] are worked all in the same stitch/space.

• This pattern is size graded, however there are also made-to-measure instructions so you could use any yarn/hook you like.

• Stitch counts are listed as (XS-L, XL-4XL) Follow the number that corresponds to your size.

• You can definitely add another row of squares a round the bottom to lengthen the cardigan to hip length if you prefer!

Measurements

This is a graded pattern designed to be a boxy cropped fit.Made-to-measure instructions are just below.

Finished Piece Measurements:

Estimates above are based on using the recommended yarn and my same gauge. However, if you wanted to use another size yarn and hook you should be able to follow the measurements or take your own measurements and achieve your desired custom top with the made-to-measure method.

Custom Measurements

A – Measure your bust circumference and add the amount of positive ease (extra room) you want, then divide by 2. For example, if my bust circumference is 30“ and I want 5” of positive ease, then my measurement A would be (30 + 5) = 35 / 2 = 17.5.

C – Take your number from A and divide by 5. For example, 17.5 / 5 = 3.5

B – Take your measurement C and multiply by 3.5 then add 1.5 for the ribbing. For example, 3.5 x 3.5 =12.25 + 1.5 = 13.75.

Let’s get started!

Pattern – Granny Squares

Notes: Each square is worked from the middle outwards and worked in the spaces between stitches. I switched colors each round. If you are making a solid color square – instead of cutting your yarn and rejoining each row, you can keep the same working yarn and continue the pattern of your granny square by a) working a slip stitch in a few stitches until you get to a space, or b) turn your work after each round.

Complete 4 rounds for size XS-L and 5 rounds for size XL-4XL. I used black for my last round. If made-to-measure, complete rounds until your square reaches Measurement C.

To Start: Grab your first color and create a magic circle OR chain 4 and join to the first chain made with a slip stitch to form a ring

Round 1: Chain 3 (counts as dc), work 2 more dc into ring *ch 2, work 3 dc into ring. Repeat from * two more times, ch 2, then join with a slip stitch into 3rd chain of the beginning chain 3. You should have 4 “clusters” and 4 ch 2 spaces as the corners. Fasten off yarn.

Round 2: Attach your yarn to a ch 2 sp. Ch 3 (counts as a dc) then work [2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc] all in that same space. *Work [3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc] into next chain 2 space. Repeat from * two more times then join with slip stitch into 3rd chain of beginning chain 3. You should have 8 “clusters”, 4 ch 2 spaces as the corners, and 4 sides with 1 space between clusters in each side. Fasten off yarn.

Round 3: Attach your yarn to a corner ch 2 sp. Ch 3 (counts as a dc) then work 2 dc, ch 2, and 3 dc all in that same space. Make 3 dc in the next space between clusters. Then in the next corner ch 2 space you will *work [3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc]. Then 3 dc in the next space. Repeat from * two more times then join with a slip stitch into the 3rd chain or the beginning chain 3. You should have 12 “clusters”, 4 ch 2 spaces as the corners, and 4 sides with 2 spaces between clusters in each side. Fasten off yarn.

Round 4: Follow the pattern in Round 3, by working 3 dc in the spaces on the sides and [3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc] in the corners. You should have 16 “clusters”, 4 ch 2 spaces as the corners, and 4 sides with 3 spaces between clusters in each side. Stop here for size XS-L & fasten off yarn. For sizes XL-4X continue to round 5.

Round 5: Follow the pattern in Round 3, by working 3 dc in the spaces on the sides and [3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc] in the corners. You should have 20 “clusters”, 4 ch 2 spaces as the corners, and 4 sides with 3 spaces between clusters in each side. Fasten off yarn.

Repeat to make 49 squares.

Pattern – Half Granny Square

Notes: The half square is worked from the middle outwards and worked in the spaces between stitches. I switched colors each round. If you are making a solid color square – instead of cutting your yarn and rejoining each row, you can keep the same working yarn and continue the pattern of your granny square. Simply turn your work after each round any continue the pattern. Do the same amount of rounds as you did for your squares. I did Black for the last round again.

To Start: Grab your first color and create a magic circle OR chain 4 and join to the first chain made with a slip stitch to form a ring

Row 1: Ch 3 (this will count as your first dc). Dc in the ring. Ch 2 and dc 3 more. Ch 2 then work 2 more dc in the ring. Fasten off yarn.

Row 2: Attach your yarn into the top of the first ch 3 from previous row. Ch 3 (counts as a dc). Skip the next st and [dc 3, ch 2, dc 3] in the next ch 2 space to make the corner. [Dc 3, ch 2, dc 3] again in the next ch 2 space. Skip a stitch and dc in the last stitch. Fasten off yarn.

Row 3: Attach your yarn the same as row 2 by connecting into the 3rd made chain of the first ch 3 from the previous row. Ch 3, dc in first space. [Dc 3, Ch 2, dc 3] in the next Ch 2 space to make the corner. Dc 3 in the next space. [Dc 3, ch 2, dc 3] in the next ch 2 space. Dc in the last space and then dc in the last stitch. Fasten off yarn.

Row 4: Attach your yarn again by connecting into the 3rd made chain of the first ch 3 from the previous row. Dc 3 in first space. [Dc 3, Ch 2, dc 3] in the next Ch 2 space to make the corner. Dc 3 in the next 2 spaces. [Dc 3, ch 2, dc 3] in the next ch 2 space. Dc 3 in the last space and then skip a stitch and dc in the last stitch. For size XS-L ONLY – sc evenly across the raw edge of the half square to get back to where you began this round to give it a full border. Sl st to your first st and fasten off yarn. Stop here for size XS-L. For size XL-4XL, fasten off yarn and continue to the next round.

Row 5: Follow the pattern in Round 3 by working 3 dc in the side spaces and [3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc] in the corner spaces. Then sc evenly across the raw edge of the half square to get back to where you began this round to give it a full border. Sl st to your first st and fasten off yarn. Stop here for size XL-4XL.

Seaming

Lay out your squares like below. You are welcome to seam them up however you like. I chose to do mattress stitch join.

Sleeve Cuffs

Attach your yarn to the sleeve cuff near a join, so it can be easily hidden.

Row 1: Ch 1 and sc in the same stitch. Sc decrease all the way around. Sl st to the first st to join.

Row 2 (OPTIONAL FOR A TIGHTER CUFF): Ch 1 and sc in the same stitch. (Sc, sc decrease) all the way around. Sl st to the first stitch to join.

Row 3: Ch 7, or however long you want your cuff to be. Sc in the second chain from hook and in the next 5 chains. Sl st into the next sc on the sleeve, and sl st again to the next sc.

Row 4: Turn. Skip the 2 slip stitches and work back in the cuff. Sc blo in the next 6 stitches. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 5: Sc blo in each of the 6 stitches. Sl st into the next sc in the sleeve, and sl st again to the next sc.

Repeat row 4 & 5 all the way around. Then fasten off your yarn with a long tail and use that tail to seam your ribbing cuff closed, working on the “wrong side” or the inside so your seam is hidden.

Do the same for the other sleeve.

Ribbing

Start at the bottom corner of your cardigan. Attach your yarn. You will work a long the bottom first, then fasten off and start again around the front opening.

Row 1: Ch 7, or however long you want your ribbing to be. Sc in the second chain from hook and in the next 5 chains. Sl st into the next stitch on your cardigan, and sl st again to the next st.

Row 2: Turn. Skip the 2 slip stitches and work back in the ribbing. Sc blo in the next 6 stitches. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 3: Sc blo in each or the 6 stitches. Sl st into the next stitch on the cardigan, and sl st again to the next stitch.

Repeat row 2 & 3 all the way around. Then fasten off your yarn.

Now attach to the bottom corner of the ribbing you just made. Repeat the same pattern above all the way around working up the front and a round the neck and back. Fasten off yarn.

Weave in all ends and…

You’re all done!

I would LOVE to see your creation! If you crochet this Granny’s Best Cardigan please tag or DM @woolymamacrochet on Instagram so I can like & share! 

If you have any questions or need help, PLEASE send me a message or leave a comment on this post.

If you enjoyed this pattern, please check out my other free patterns for wearables! Like the Seaside Shrug, Lovely Lacy Top, Granny’s Cabin Shrug, High Neck Granny Halter Top, Checkerboard Beanie or Coco Summer Crop Top! Thank you for checking out my blog and be sure to subscribe to my email list so you never miss a new free pattern!