Welcome!! I am SO excited to share this Free Crochet pattern with you. I have been working on this Granny’s Cabin Shrug crochet pattern for months, and have had some incredible makers test this pattern for me. I am thrilled to be able to share their work with you and all of their beautiful color choices. You can see all 60+ of them on my Instagram here!

This free pattern uses traditional crochet granny squares as the base of this shrug, with a little tweaking. If you are familiar with granny squares, you will breeze through this pattern! If you haven’t created a granny square before, or are just starting out with crocheting – don’t worry, I go through each row step by step so you will be able to make your very own Granny’s Cabin Shrug with no problem. 🙂

I think this is a great transitional crochet garment for fall and spring. The Granny’s Cabin Shrug is cozy enough to keep you warm, but the holes from the granny stitch keep it nice and airy. The infinite color possibilities also make it great for any season!

This is also a great stash buster project! I actually was able to create my Granny’s Cabin Shrug by just using what I had on hand already. A lot of my pattern testers were able to do the same.

This pattern is size inclusive, and made to measure. The pattern is written to fit an adult, but with a little adjusting you could easily make this for a child. I plan on making one for my 1 year old daughter so we can match 🙂 Hers will be so quick to make!

You may sell the finished product as long as I am credited for the pattern. Do not copy and publish this pattern as your own.

If you would like to purchase the inexpensive ad-free PDF pattern & support this site, you can do so here!

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Measurements

This free pattern is made-to-measure. It is designed to fit oversized through the arms and sleeves, and super cropped with the hem hitting your chest.

You will only need 1 measurement. Take your tape measurer and measure around your chest and under your arms. Then divide that number by 2. This will be your Measurement A.

Materials

• approximately 450-600 grams of worsted weight, or size 4 yarn depending on your size
• 5.5 mm hook
• tapestry needle to weave in the ends
• scissors to cut your yarn
• measuring tape
• blocking board (optional)

Abbreviations

sl st – slip stitch

ch – chain

sc – single crochet

dc – double crochet

blo – back loop only

sc dec – single crochet decrease

st – stitch

[] – work pattern in brackets [] in the same stitch

FAQS

• Can I use a solid color yarn instead of switching colors every row? YES. Instead of cutting your yarn and rejoining each row, you can keep the same working yarn and continue the pattern of your granny square. 2 options of doing this include a) working a slip stitch in a few stitches until you get to a chain space, or b) turn your work after each round.

• Can I do a different ribbing instead of Sl st blo? YES. You can use any method of ribbing you prefer! Because Sl st blo is a “tighter” stitch, you made need to add additional decrease rows to adjust for that if you use a different method. You can also totally omit the ribbing and it looks really great that way too! 🙂

• Can I join squares using sc stitch, or sewing, or another method I like instead of “join-as-you-go”. YES. If you prefer using a different method you can totally do that! To adjust for that, you will create 9 total rounds on your squares (instead of 8) before moving on to connect.

• 8 rounds on each square is too large, how can I make this pattern smaller? This shrug is designed to fit oversized, but to make it smaller, you can decrease the amount of rounds on each square. Make sure they are all the same amount of rounds so the joins line up still!

Granny Squares

Make 10.

Notes: Each granny square is worked from the middle outwards. I switched colors each round. I chose to follow the same color pattern for all of my squares, feel free to switch the order up and play with your colors. This shrug can have a totally new look with each unique color combination. 🙂

To Start: Grab your first color and create a magic circle OR chain 4 and join to the first chain made with a slip stitch to form a ring

Round 1: Chain 3 (counts as dc), work 2 more dc into ring *ch 3, work 3 dc into ring. Repeat from * two more times, ch 3, then join with a slip stitch into 3rd chain of the beginning chain 3. You should have 4 “clusters” and 4 ch 3 spaces as the corners.

Round 2: Join your next color by making a slip knot on hook, then place the hook into any chain 3 space from first round. Draw up a loop and pull through both loops. Chain 2 more (counts as a dc), then work 2 dc in same space. *Chain 1, [3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc] into next chain 3 space. Repeat from * two more times then ch 1, 3 dc in same space as beginning cluster, ch 3 and join with slip stitch into 3rd chain of beginning chain 3.

Round 3: Join your next color as done previously in Round 2, then make 2 more dc in same chain 3 space to make a cluster. *Chain 1, 3 dc in next ch 1 space, ch 1 [3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc] in next chain 3 space. Repeat from *two more times, then ch 1, 3 dc into next chain 1 space, ch 1, 3 dc in same space as beginning cluster, ch 3 and join with a slip stitch into 3rd chain of beginning chain 3.

Round 4: Grab your next color and join as done previously, then make 2 more dc in same chain 3 space to make a cluster. *Chain 1, 3 dc in next ch 1 spaces, ch 1 [3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc] in next chain 3 space. Repeat from *two more times, then ch 1, 3 dc into next chain 1 space, ch 1, 3 dc in same space as beginning cluster, ch 3 and join with a slip stitch into 3rd chain of beginning chain 3.

Round 5 – 8: Follow the pattern in Round 4, by working 3 dc in the ch1 spaces on sides and [3dc, ch 3, 3dc] in the corners. Work a ch1 in between the dc clusters on the sides.

Note: the next round will be the joining round for the sleeves. This will be later on in the pattern.

Repeat rounds 1-8 to make 10 squares.

4 squares for each sleeve (8)

1 square for the front and back (2)

Body Squares

Once you complete all 8 rounds of your squares, move 8 squares to the side. This is a great time to block those squares if you wish.

Take one of your 2 remaining squares and measure across. Does this measurement reach your measurement A? If so, you can skip the increase instructions and move on to the next step of connecting your squares.

If your square measures short of your measurement A, complete 1 more full round on those 2 squares. (You should have 9 rounds total on these now)

In the next steps you will add rows to 2 opposite sides, to increase the width of the square until you reach your measurement A. It is better to be slightly larger than your measurement than being too small. Oversized is the vibe we are going for!

Body Squares Increase Instructions

Row 1: Join your color of choice to the ch 3 space in the corner of your square. I used red in my picture below. Ch 4 (this counts as a dc + ch 1). *Work 3 dc in the next ch 1 space, then ch 1. Repeat from * until you reach the next corner ch 3 space. Work 1 dc into the corner and fasten off. With the same color on the opposite side of your square, join and repeat this row.

Row 2: Join your next color on the third chain of the ch 4 of the previous row. I used yellow in the picture above. Ch 3. 3 dc in the immediate space from the ch 4 from the previous row. * ch 1, 3 dc in the next space. Repeat from * until you reach the last space. Work 3 dc in the last space and then 1 dc in the last dc stitch from the previous row and fasten off. With the same color on the opposite side of the square, join and repeat this row.

Row 3: Join your next color to the top of the ch 3 from the previous row. *Work 3 dc in the next ch 1 space, then ch 1. Repeat from * until you reach the last space. Make 3 dc in the last space, then 1 dc in the last dc stitch and fasten off. With the same color on the opposite side of the square, join and repeat this row.

Continue adding both rows 2 & 3 as needed until the width of your square reaches your measurement A. Make sure you end with row 3 so our spaces line up when we join our squares. Do the same for the second body square. For my example, I only needed the 3 extra rows on each side. You might need more depending on your size and preference. We will add one last row on each side when we join.

Connecting Your Squares

Sleeves

You should have 8 squares set aside, you will use 4 for each sleeve.

Square 1: Take your next color (joining color) and join to your first square and complete a full round as done previously. Cut and fasten off yarn. You should have 9 rounds on this square now.

Square 2: Join your yarn to the corner ch 3 space of your square. Ch 3 (counts as a dc) and work 2 more dc into the same space. *Ch 1, 3 dc in the next sp. Repeat from * until you reach the corner. Start the corner by working 3 dc in the ch 3 space. Ch 1.

Sandwich your first square to your working square, wrong sides facing each other.

Insert your hook through the corner of square 1, yarn over, and pull through all loops (the corner space and the loop on your hook). You are essentially making a slip stitch through the space. Ch 1, dc 3 in the corner of your working square to finish the corner.

Continue this side by repeating a sl st through the next space on square 1, then 3 dc in the next space on your working square until you reach the next corner.

In the corner, work 3 dc, ch 1, sl st to the corner of square 1, ch 1, and then 3 dc in the same space. Finish the rest of this round of granny stitches like normal and fasten off.

Square 3: You will join square 3 the same way. Start by doing a side as done previously, then see the picture below. You’ll join along the green line, then do another side regular. Then on the last side, you will fold over and join the blue line sides together, forming a tube. Make sure the “right side” is facing outwards where you can see it.

Square 4: You will join square 4 the same way, but will be connecting on 3 sides to finish the sleeve. See the middle picture below. Each color line represents the join you will be making. Note: When you are joining in the center apex, you will make 2 Sl st to 2 different square corners, see photos below. Repeat for the other sleeve.

Body – with increases

Now that we have our 2 sleeves done and our body panels ready, we can connect them all together. We will use the “join as you go” method again. If you didn’t add increases to your body panel – go to the next section for instructions on joining.

Take your body panel and join your yarn (joining color) to the 3rd ch of your ch 4. Ch 2. Slip stitch into the corner ch 3 space of one of your sleeve squares. Then work 2 more dc into the ch 4 space of your body panel to create the cluster. See middle picture below.

Continue around and join as you did before, by working a sl st into the next space on your sleeve square, followed by 3 dc in the next space on your body panel. When you get to the end of the first body panel, you can either fasten off and restart on the other side, or continue by flipping your sleeve and add the next body panel with a sl st to the ch 4 space. Whichever is easier for you! Repeat until everything is joined.

Body – without increases

If you didn’t add any increases to your body panel follow the joining instructions below.

You will add round 9 as your joining round, to connect your body panels to the sleeves.

Round 9: Join your yarn to the corner ch 3 space of your square. Ch 3 (counts as a dc) and work 2 more dc into the same space. *Ch 1, 3 dc in the next sp. Repeat from * until you reach the corner. Start the corner by working 3 dc in the ch 3 space. Ch 1.

Sandwich your sleeve square to your working square, wrong sides facing each other.

Slip stitch through the corner space. Ch 1, dc 3 in the corner of your working square to finish the corner.

Continue this side by repeating a sl st through the next space on the sleeve square, then 3 dc in the next space on your working square until you reach the next corner. In the corner, work 3 dc, ch 1, sl st to the corner of the sleeve square, ch 1, and then 3 dc in the same space.

Do the next side like normal until you get to the next corner. You will now join to the other sleeve using the same instructions as above. Finish the last side like a normal granny square. Repeat to join the back panel.

Ribbing & Finishing

Sleeve Ribbings

Row 1: Join your yarn to a ch 1 space on your sleeve. Sc dec around each st and ch 1 space. Slip stitch to the first st.

To do a sc dec, insert your hook into the next st, yarn over and pull through, then insert your hook into the next st, yarn over and pull through, then yarn over and pull through all loops.

Optional: You may want to do a second round of sc dec to create a tighter cuff for your sleeve.

Now we will go back and forth on the ribbing all the way around.

Row 2: chain 6, slip stitch on 2nd chain from hook. Slip stitch in the next 4 stitches. Slip st in the next sc stitch from row 1. You can make your chain shorter or longer depending on how long you want your ribbing to be.

Slip stitch in the next sc stitch again. (Essentially will create another decrease). Turn.

Row 3-on: skip 2 stitches, slip stitch blo in next 5. Ch 1 and turn. Sl st blo in next 5 st. Sl st in the next sc from row 1, and again in one more sc. Turn. Repeat until you have went all around your sleeve opening.

Once you’ve went all the way around, cut your yarn with a 3-4 inch tail. Use your darning needle to sew your ribbing together by inserting your needle into the back loop of one side, and chain st of the other, and pulling through. Then insert your needle back through the next back loop and ch st and pull through. Continue through all 5 stitches and fasten off.

Repeat for the other sleeve.

Body Hem Ribbing

I first added a sc round around the top and bottom of the body portion in the same color I used for the last joining round of my squares.

To do this, join your yarn to the space between your body square and sleeve square. Sc evenly all the way around in each st and space. Repeat for the other side.

Now to add ribbing. This is totally optional if you like how it looks without the bottom ribbing you can leave as is and move on to finishing the neckline!

For my ribbing, I used the same color as the sleeves ribbing. Join your yarn to any stitch. Ch 5, sl st blo in second chain from hook and next 3 chains. Sl st into the next sc on the body square. Turn.

Skip 1 st and then sl st blo in the next 4. Ch 1 and turn. Sl st blo in the next 4 st. Sl stitch the next sc on the body square. Turn. Repeat until you’ve made it all the way around. If you find your ribbing to be curling, add another sl st to the next sc on the body square between your ribbing rows (essentially a dec) as needed.

Once you’ve went all the way around, cut your yarn with a 3-4 inch tail and use your darning needle to sew your ribbing together.

Neckline Closure

Yay, We have made it to the final step! Let’s close off our neckline/shoulders now. You are welcome to use any method of joining – I used a sl st join. I left an opening that was about where my body panel increase rows started. You can see in the picture below. You can make yours bigger or smaller depending on how you’d like it to fit.

I did a sl st join, working outward toward the sleeves, by inserting my hook through the “inside loops” of the front and back panels and working a sl st.

Start with a slip knot on your hook. Insert your hook through the back loop only of the first stitch on the front panel, then insert your hook through the front loop only of the back panel. Yarn over and pull through all loops on your hook. Continue down until you reach the sleeve panels. Fasten and cut yarn.

Repeat the other side at the same length.

… Weave in all of your ends & you’re done!

All done!

Congratulations! You have finished your Granny’s Cabin Shrug. I really hope you enjoy your shrug as much as I do.

I’d LOVE to see your work, please tag or DM @woolymamacrochet on Instagram so I can like & share! 

If you loved this pattern, please check out my other free patterns here!

Please don’t hesitate to contact me if you have questions! Thank you for your support.

Happy Crocheting!! <3