Welcome back to my blog! Have you been seeing those super adorable super chunky knit sweaters everywhere too? They have been all over my Pinterest board and I am OBSESSED with them! The problem is, I am a crocheter, not a knitter. So I thought I would figure out a way to create it but with Crochet! & now I am here sharing it with you so that you can make your very own too!
This Free Marshmallow Sweater pattern is very beginner friendly as it is only made up of simple stitches like slip stitch, single crochet, and the yarn over slip stitch (which I will explain exactly how to do). It is constructed in 4 panels then seamed together. The ribbing on the body and the sleeve cuffs are made at the same time as the panels which is such a fun technique that looks so pretty!
You will want to use a super bulky yarn to get the chunky look. This pattern is size graded with using chunky yarn but I also have included made-to-measure instructions so you can use any yarn, any size, & any hook you want!

To purchase the inexpensive ad-free PDF download of this pattern, you can do so here!
A quick disclaimer—Please do not copy, redistribute, or resell this pattern in any way, including creating a video tutorial. You may sell your finished piece but please credit me as the pattern designer.
If you share your piece on social media, please credit me as the pattern designer. I would love if you tag me!! I really enjoy seeing your beautiful work.
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Materials
- Yarn – 700-930 yards of Super Bulky weight (6) yarn, depending on size. I used Hobbii Tint & Tone in color Mint (09)
- Hook – 15 mm (I use these!)
- Tapestry needle – to weave in the ends
- Scissors – to cut your yarn
- Stitch Markers
- Measuring Tape
Gauge
8.5 st x 6 rows of yo sl st = 4’ x 4’ (10 x 10 cm)
Abbreviations
Sl st = Slip Stitch
Ch = Chain
Sc = Single Crochet
Yo = Yarn Over
St = Stitch
Sp = Space
Sk = Skip
Yo Sl St = Yarn Over Slip Stitch
Blo = Back Loop Only
Important Pattern Notes
- This pattern uses US crochet terms.
- Turning ch 1 does not count as a stitch.
- This pattern is worked side to side in 4 panels which are then seamed together. Then you will crochet a collar around the neck line.
- This pattern is size graded, however you can make-to-measure also.
- This sweater is designed to fit oversized & slightly cropped. For a slimmer fit, size down. For a longer sweater, increase the number of chains in Row 1.
- Stitch count in parentheses reflect the amount for each size (XS/S, M/L, XL/2X, 3X/4X)
- The “right side” of your work will be the side that has the V shape stitches facing upwards.

Special Stitch
Yarn Over Slip Stitch: Yarn over and then insert your hook into the stitch. Yarn over and then pull through all of the loops on your hook. For this pattern you will be working this stitch into the back loop only (blo).
Sizes
This is a graded pattern designed to achieve an oversized slightly cropped fit that hits at the wasit, however there are instructions for a customized fit included too. These measurements reflect the final piece.

Estimates above are based on using super bulky weight yarn and my same gauge. However, if you wanted to use another size yarn and hook you should be able to follow the measurements or take your own measurements and achieve your desired custom sweater.
Custom Measurements
A – Measure widest part of your bust & divide by 2. Then add how much ease you want in your sweater.
B – Measure from the top of your shoulder down to where you want your sweater to end then add 1.5 inches.
C – Measure the circumference of your neck and divide by 2 then add 2 inches.
D – Subtract measurement C from A
E – Measure the length of your arm from the shoulder seam to your wrist & add 1.5 inches. I recommend to wait to try on your sweater after finishing the body panels since the shoulder seam will be slightly lower than your actual shoulder
Let’s get started!

Written Pattern
BODY PANELS
Row 1: Ch (36, 40, 45, 49) + 1 (turning chain does not count as a stitch) or until you reach measurement B, yo sl st in the second ch from hook and in each ch until 5 ch remain. Sl st into each of the last 5 chs. Keep your stitches fairly loose so you can easily work into them in the next rows.
Row 2: Ch 1 and turn. Sl st blo x 5, then yo sl st blo in the rest of the row.
Row 3: Ch 1 and turn. Yo sl st blo in each stitch until 5 remain, then sl st blo x 5.
Repeat rows 2 & 3 until you complete (17, 19, 21, 23) rows total, ending after Row 3, or reach your measurement D. Do not cut yarn, you will continue to work short rows to form the neckline.
NECKLINE
Row 1: Ch 1 and turn. Sl st blo x 5, then yo sl st blo until 3 stitches remain. (For a deeper neckline, leave more stitches unworked at the end to make a shorter row.)
Row 2: Ch 1 and turn. Yo sl st blo until 5 stitches remain, then sl st blo x 5.
Row 3: Ch 1 and turn. Sl st blo x 5, the yo sl st blo in the rest of the row.
Repeat rows 2 & 3 three more times then repeat row 2 again until you have 10 rows total, or reach your measurement C. You should end after repeating row 2.
BODY PANEL … continued

Row 1: Ch 1 and turn. Sl st blo x 5, the yo sl st blo in the rest of the row, then chain 4.
Row 2: Yo sl st into the second ch from hook and into the next 2 chains. Yo sl st blo in each stitch until 5 remain, then sl st blo x 5.
Row 3: Ch 1 and turn. Sl st blo x 5, then yo sl st blo in the rest of the row.
Row 4: Ch 1 and turn. Yo sl st blo in each stitch until 5 remain, then sl st blo x 5.
Repeat rows 3 & 4 until you complete (17, 19, 21, 23) rows total, or reach measurement D, ending after Row 4.
Your body panel should have (44, 48, 52, 56) rows total. Fasten off yarn. Repeat to make another body panel.
SLEEVES
Row 1: Ch 31+ 1 (turning chain does not count as a stitch), or until you reach measurement E. Yo sl st in the second ch from hook and in the next 25 chains. Sl st into each of the last 5 chains. Remember to keep your stitches fairly loose throughout.
Row 2: Ch 1 and turn. Sl st blo x 5, then yo sl st blo x 26.
Row 3: Ch 1 and turn. Yo sl st blo x 26, then sl st blo x 5.
Repeat rows 2 & 3 until you complete 22 rows total, ending on Row 2. For a wider sleeve, you can continue making rows ending on a Row 2.

Fasten off yarn with a tail that’s about 3 times the width of your sleeve to use to seam with later. Repeat to make the other sleeve.
Seaming
Lay out your panels like shown. You will seam along the shoulders first. Then you will seam your sleeves onto your body panels. Lastly, you will fold your sweater and seam up the sides of your panel and continue to seam your sleeves closed.

1 – Place one body panel on the other with the wrong sides facing each other. You can tell which is the wrong side by seeing which way the “Vs” in the stitches are facing – if they are upside down facing towards the bottom then that is the wrong side. I recommend seaming with a whip stitch. Insert your needle through the stitch on the front then the back panel and pull through. You will be working through the raw side of the stitches, so try your best to stay consistent. Repeat all the way down.
2 – Now line up your sleeve panels with the center lined up with the center of your shoulder seam. My sleeve was 24 rows so I counted 14 stitches on each side and added a stitch marker. Working again on the wrong side, seam the sleeves to your body panels. If you left a long tail on your sleeve panel you can use that.
3 – Fold your top down on itself, with wrong sides facing out. You will now seam up and along the body panel, then along the length of the sleeve. Repeat for the other side.
Collar
Flip your sweater right side out & attach your yarn to the neckline near a join, so it can be easily hidden.
Row 1: Ch 1 and sc in the same stitch and in each stitch around the entire neckline evenly. Sl st to the first sc to join.
Row 2: Ch 4, then sl st in the second ch from hook and in the next 2 chains. Then sl st into the next sc st on the neckline, and again into the next sc.

Row 3: Turn. Skip the first 2 slip stitches that you made into the sc in the neckline. Then sl st blo x 3.
Row 4: Ch 1 and turn. Sl st blo x 3, then sl st into the next 2 sc stitches on the neckline.
Repeat rows 3 & 4 all the way around. Once you finish going all the way around you can either seam your ribbing together by doing a sc in each stitch working in the inside of your collar and then fasten off, OR cut your yarn with a tail long enough to seam it together with a tapestry needle.
Weave in all ends and then …

You’re all done!
I would LOVE to see your creation! If you crochet this Marshmallow Sweater please tag or DM @woolymamacrochet on Instagram so I can like & share!
If you have any questions or need help, PLEASE send me a message or leave a comment on this post.
If you enjoyed this pattern, please check out my other free patterns for wearables! Like the Lovely Lacy Top, Granny’s Cabin Shrug, High Neck Granny Halter Top, Checkerboard Beanie or Coco Summer Crop Top! Thank you for checking out my blog and be sure to subscribe to my email list so you never miss a new free pattern!
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